Chapter Six: Into the Himalayas We Go: Annapurna Eco Village


    Our Indian Land Rover-style vehicle came to pick us up at the Hotel Marigold in Pokhara for the long, bumpy 40-minute ride into the mountains to the Annapurna Eco Village in nearby Astam. 

    By now our guide realized I wasn’t in top condition due to the illnesses, and made some adjustments to our plans for trekking.  We would spend two nights at the Eco Village, during which we would take two “practice hikes” so he could see what my capabilities were.  I was to rest as much as possible, and enjoy the spectacular view of the Annapurna Himalayas.  The food and people were very enjoyable.  Our room was quite comfortable, with stunning morning views of the sunrise over many layers of mountains stretching forth into the horizon, and the massif of Fishtail, or Machhapuchare, looming ominously over the camp. 


There were trekkers there of all ages and nationalities. We all ate together in a large dining hall where we could get to know one another.  Rob and I would be trekking with Hari and his son Sajan, our porter, but with no other trekkers.
   The next morning Hari took us on a walk around the campus.  At the top of a hill, we paused to admire a temple being built by the local community.  Next to the temple, clinging precariously to the side of a very steep mountain, was a narrow dirt goat path.  I prayed that that would not be our first trail, but…of course it was.  In my youth I did some climbing and repelling, overcoming a fear of heights that would never really go away.  Now it reared its head again, as my foot slipped and only my trekking poles kept me from going over the edge.  Hari shot me a look that said, “Oh, boy, now what do I have to deal with???”  And onward we went.  Soon the trail moved further up the mountain with more distance between us and the edge, which suited me far better.  At one point we stopped to watch a monkey that was sitting out on a stone ledge overlooking the valley far below.  (It’s the brown dot on the rock in the photo below.)



We turned inward and walked through the local government school grounds, then through several local farms and future guest houses. 

Hari and Rob

    Hari is a well-known entity in Annapurna. He’s been a guide for 30+ years, and is also involved in local politics.  Everywhere we went, he was met with enthusiasm.  Finally he asked me if I had had enough for one day, and I sucked it up and said, no, I could walk farther.  Off we went, walking down the dirt road and greeting more of his friends. Every now and then we would pass someone carrying an enormous load on his or her back or head. 



 I was very impressed with the strength of these people.  I rarely saw an overweight Nepali.  Most were small and wiry, and up in these mountains, often had Tibetan or Chinese features and dialects.
   At last we headed back to camp, where I fell gratefully into bed and napped until dinner. Slowly I was regaining strength for the days ahead.  I had trained so hard for this event - nothing could stop me now.
Our room in one of the Eco Village bungalows




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